T H I S+W E E K Banks of forgiveness By Felicia Clark A pilgrimage to India's holy city D E P A R T M E N T S > The Surreal Gourmet By Bob Blumer Crustacean celebration Postmark | London By Mary Elizabeth Williams Erotic design exhibits and a cappuccino craze signify the new face of old London Passages "Days and Nights on the Grand Trunk Road" By Anthony Weller Readers' Tips and Tales Great Railway Journeys - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Your virtual travel agency - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - LA S T+W E E K Tuesday, July 29 Crime takes a holiday By David Corn Cavorting with mystery writers at a conference-cum-carnival in northern Spain A full list of all Wanderlust articles

___C__R__U__S__T__A__C__E__A__N ____________celebration - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ____________DECADENT FLAIR AND INFORMAL FUN COMBINE IN ____________THIS LOBSTER AND CHAMPAGNE FEAST. THE SURREAL GOURMET | last spring, I was asked by a Salon reader to help create a theme for an extra special dinner party on an extra low budget. I suggested a B.Y.O. lobster dinner where the guests are responsible for arriving with their own main course. Now that lobster season is in full swing and prices have fallen to their lowest level of the year, it's the perfect opportunity to splurge and treat some of your best friends to a crustacean celebration. But just because you are supplying the lobsters doesn't mean that your guests are off the hook entirely. Ask everyone to bring a bottle of fine champagne, a protective raincoat and a pair of pliers. Then forget everything Miss Manners ever taught you about formal dinner party protocol and host a feast that combines traditional decadence with informal, beach-style fun. Here's the drill: Tape down your dining room table with several layers of newspaper. Prepare some or all of the dip recipes listed below. Set each place setting with a lobster pick or an escargot fork, a dipping bowl with warm water and a lemon slice, and a champagne glass. Set out a tall stack of napkins, or a roll of paper towels, and a large bowl for the shells. Steam the lobsters. Drop the cooked lobsters onto the middle of the table, pop the champagne corks and let the claws fly! - - - - - - - - - - - - LOBSTERS (Serves 6) Ingredients 1 teaspoon salt 6 live lobsters, 1-1/4 pounds each (select the liveliest ones) 1. Pour 3 cups of water into a large stockpot with a vegetable steamer. Add the salt and bring to a boil. (A large pot should accommodate up to 6 lobsters. For servings of more than 6, use a second pot.) 2. Drop the live lobsters head-first into the pot, cover tightly and say 10 Hail Marys. Steam for 8 to 10 minutes per pound (12 minutes should be perfect for 1-1/4-pound lobsters). 3. The lobsters will be a deep red color when done. To double-check doneness, pull off one of the walking legs. If it comes away easily, it is done. 4. Remove lobsters from the pot. Turn each lobster upside down and make a cut through the shell down the middle of the entire tail. Serve immediately. LEMON-TARRAGON DRAWN BUTTER Ingredients 1/2 pound unsalted butter 1/4 cup fresh tarragon leaves, minced 1 lemon, zested 1. Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat. When butter is fully melted, remove from heat and let stand for 3 minutes. The butter should settle into three layers: a frothy top, a clear yellow middle and a milky bottom. 2. Begin by skimming or spooning the froth off the top. Then carefully and slowly pour out the clear middle layer into a bowl while retaining all of the white sediment in the pan. Discard the froth and solids. If necessary, repeat the skimming process on the remaining butter in the bowl. 3. Add the tarragon, lemon zest and 2 tablespoons of the lemon juice to the warm butter. 4. Transfer the butter to a warmed dipping bowl. GINGER-MANGO PURÉE Ingredients 1 mango, peeled, pitted and cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1/2 inch fresh ginger, peeled and minced 1/2 jalapeño chili, seeds and membranes removed, minced 4 fresh basil leaves, coarsely chopped 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon seasoned rice vinegar (also known as sushi vinegar) 1/4 teaspoon salt Purée all the ingredients in a blender or processor until smooth. AIOLI Ingredients 4 garlic cloves, minced 1 egg yolk at room temperature 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 1/8 teaspoon salt 1 cup olive oil 1. Add the garlic, egg yolk, lemon juice and salt to a blender or food processor and purée until smooth. If you do not have a blender or food processor, whisk the ingredients together in a bowl. 4. Slowly pour in the oil with the motor running and purée for about 1 minute or until the sauce thickens. Cover and refrigerate. If you are using a whisk, keep beating while very gradually adding the oil, until the aioli is thick. (This will take several minutes.) SOY-WASABI DIPPING SAUCE Ingredients 1 teaspoon wasabi (Japanese horseradish), premixed with water 1/2 cup soy sauce (or tamari sauce) 1. Put the wasabi in a bowl and add 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce. 2. Using the back of a spoon, blend until wasabi is dissolved. Add the remaining soy sauce. Le Secret: Do not overcook the lobster. The Adventure Club: Lobster races! (as long as no PETA members are in attendance) Alternatives: Crabs, clams, crayfish, unshelled jumbo shrimp. Notes: If you are cooking for more than six, or if your dinner table is large, divide each of the dips into two or more bowls. The lemon-tarragon drawn butter and soy-wasabi dipping sauce will separate. Place them in shallow bowls to facilitate a complete dipping experience. To ensure even cooking, select lobsters of similar weight. Dried wasabi (just add water) and seasoned rice vinegar are available in the Asian section of most grocery stores. Trust me on the ginger-mango purée. Guest Assignment: Running after escaped lobsters. Hints for Advance Prep: Prepare the sauces up to 1 day in advance. (Warm the lemon-tarragon drawn butter just before serving.) Music to Shell By: The Waterboys, "Fisherman's Blues," Chrysalis Wine: Champagne! Aug. 5, 1997 - - - - - - - - - - - - Illustration by Bob Blumer (a k a the Surreal Gourmet). Browse the Surreal Gourmet Archives The Surreal Gourmet's Web Site is located at http://surrealgourmet.com.

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