T H I S+W E E K Sleeping with elephants By Don Meredith Earth-shaking encounters in Kenya Sleepless in Siena By Don George, Editor The strangest place I've ever slept Man is an island By Jan Morris The Isle of Man is the last contented jewel in Britain's imperial crown D E P A R T M E N T S >The Surreal Gourmet By Bob Blumer Corn off the cob Passages "Desiring Italy" Mary Taylor Simeti's Sicilian journal Readers' Tips and Tales My private wanderlust - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Your virtual travel agency - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - LA S T+W E E K Tuesday, August 12, 1997 S t .+E l v i s - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Who took the grace out of Graceland? By Cintra Wilson Our columnist goes to Memphis The King and us By Christina Boufis The world's most maniacal Elvis fans Way dead Elvis By Greil Marcus A tribute to the King proves that his posthumous legend has become equal parts sincerity and trash A full list of all Wanderlust articles

corn off the cob THERE'S MORE THAN ONE WAY TO ENJOY THIS YEAR'S CROP. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - T_H_E__S_U_R_R_E_A_L__G_O_U_R_M_E_T AS A CHILD, I can remember two distinctive seasons for corn. The first occurred in August, during which roadside farmers' stands sprouted up like weeds and every Sunday's dinner featured just-picked corn-on-the-cob slathered in butter. I can still proudly recall eating a dozen ears in one sitting. During the remaining 11 months of the year, there was a bumper crop of canned creamed corn, stacked up in the cupboard, ready to accompany my mother's Shake 'N' Bake chicken. Times have changed, and fresh corn trucked in from warmer climates is available year-round. However, the flavor, texture and smell of fresh, sweet corn is distinct and unforgettable. I discovered later in life there's more to do with fresh corn than simply feasting on it like a human typewriter. The following two recipes -- one complex, one simple -- will give you two new ways to savor this season's harvest. - - - - - - - - - - - - ROASTED CORN CHOWDER WITH CHIPOTLE PEPPER (Serves 6) Ingredients 8 ears of corn, in their husks 1 red bell pepper 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 medium-sized sweet onions, diced 6 cloves garlic, diced 6 cups homogenized milk 1 1/2 cups cilantro leaves, finely chopped 1 1/2 teaspoons salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4-1/2 teaspoon ground chipotle pepper (depending on your pain and pleasure threshold) 1. Pull off most of the corn husks, leaving one or two layers intact on the cob. 2. Roast corn over a hot grill, turning one quarter rotation every 3 minutes or so, until the husk has blackened and the kernels have begun to brown (aka caramelize). While you are at it, roast the bell pepper in the same manner until all of the skin has blackened. 3. Remove corn from the grill and let cool. Husk corn, then use a sharp knife to cut kernels from the cob into a large bowl. 4. In a sauté pan over medium-high heat, sauté garlic and onions for approximately 20 minutes, until golden brown. 5. Skin and seed the bell pepper, then dice it finely. 6. In a food processor, purée half the corn and all of the onions and garlic. 7. In a soup pot, combine the puréed mixture, remaining corn, cilantro leaves, bell pepper, milk, salt, pepper and chipotle pepper. Simmer (do not let it boil) over medium heat for 15 minutes. Le Secret: The more caramelized the corn is, the richer the soup will taste The Adventure Club: Add some cooked lobster meat (leftover from your Lobster and Champagne party) or crab meat, just before serving, and call it dinner. Notes: Ground chipotle chili pepper is a Southwest specialty made from smoked jalapeño peppers. Its smoky flavor adds another dimension to the chowder. If you can't track it down in a specialty store, you may substitute cayenne pepper. If you don't have the facility, patience, energy, interest (choose one) to roast the corn, just cut the kernels from the husk, then sauté in some butter over medium-high heat until they start to brown. If you go this way, dice the bell pepper up and sauté it with the corn. Music To Simmer By: "Oklahoma," original Broadway cast Wine: A crisp Sauvignon Blanc - - - - - - - - - - - - I CAN'T BELIEVE IT'S NOT CREAMED CORN (Serves 2 as a side dish) The first time I was served this side dish at a friend's restaurant, I was blown away by how sweet it was. When I asked my friend what the secret ingredients were, I assumed his answer would be heavy cream and lots of butter. To my surprise, he told me there was nothing but a bit of salt and pepper. The secret rests in the method of separating the sweet milk and meat of the corn from the less tasty kernel casings. I add a bit of butter (because as the commercials say, everything is better with butter), but it's not necessary. Ingredients 3 ears of corn, husked 1 tablespoon butter (optional) salt and pepper to taste 1. Using a sharp knife, start at the top of the cob and draw a slit through each row of kernels. (Accuracy is of no consequence here.) 2. Grab your largest pot. While holding the cob inside the pot, run the back side of a dinner knife against the cob, forcing the meat and milk out from the casings. Be forewarned, this is a messy job (hence the pot) that requires a healthy amount of muscle power. 3. Transfer the corn mush to a smaller pot and warm over medium heat. Season with salt and pepper (and butter if you choose) and serve immediately. Aug. 19, 1997 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Illustration by Bob Blumer (a k a the Surreal Gourmet). Browse the Surreal Gourmet Archives The Surreal Gourmet's Web Site is located at http://surrealgourmet.com.

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