TIME FOR ONE THING | BY KATE MOSES

Among the many wrong ways is that taken by the delicately beautiful Lee Remick, as she buckles under to the drunken, sour whining of Jack Lemmon in 1962's Academy Award-winning "Days of Wine and Roses." As Joe Clay, a rising San Francisco public relations flak embittered by the hidden cost of his job involving procuring dates for his leering clients -- something he refers to as "a little matter of personal integrity" -- Lemmon staggers loudly home after a 16-hour day and as many highballs. Singing to their sleeping baby while waiting up for Joe is his young wife, Kirsten, played by Remick -- blonde, pure, fine boned, her face like a petal. Shushed gently by Kirsten at the door to the nursery, Joe explodes, attacking Kirsten for not being fun any more and for refusing to drink with him. Who could forget Lee Remick's anguished whisper, "You know I'm not supposed to, on account of my milk," while clutching her breasts through her flowered nightie? ("You're gonna ruin your shape!" Joe petulantly gripes.) Later, after Joe sobs his apology into her lap, Kirsten resignedly pours herself a drink. The next time we see Kirsten, she's slumped in front of the TV, watching cartoons during naptime with a glass in one hand and a lit cigarette in the other.

But one drink needn't lead to burning down the apartment and abandoning your child. In fact, in some cases, one drink might prevent it.

Our nomination for the perfect warm-weather cocktail is the Cosmopolitan. Born in San Francisco and considered a sort of grown-up's Kamikaze, the Cosmo is tart and cool, blush colored and easy to drink, as its flavor is derived mostly from cranberry juice and lime. Served in a chilled, stemmed martini glass, a Cosmopolitan sipped before dinner can make you feel just a little more like an adult. If you can manage to sit down with another adult while enjoying your drinks together, all the better, but Cosmos have been known to work their not particularly subtle magic even with "Sesame Street" blaring and full grocery bags lining the kitchen counters as atmosphere.

The "official" recipe for a Cosmopolitan differs depending on who you ask. Use the recipe below, from Salon's ever-attentive-to-maternal-needs Surreal Gourmet, as a rule of thumb, varying amounts according to taste. Mothers Who Drink favors a bit less lime and suggests Triple Sec as a less expensive alternative to Cointreau. However you shake it, though, the right glass seems a necessary part of the ritual.

The Surreal Gourmet's Cosmopolitan

1 and 1/2 ounce vodka
1/2 ounce Cointreau
Juice of 1 lime
Splash of cranberry juice
Optional: sliced lime or orange peel for garnish

Shake all ingredients together with ice until well chilled. Strain and pour into a martini glass. Garnish with an orange twist.
June 17, 1997