Dahling, you taste fabulous!

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Gonzo Congo
Redmond O'Hanlon hunts dinosaurs in the African jungle
By Don George, Editor

Fetishes and fossils
A talk with Redmond O'Hanlon

Kidnap my heart
By Alison Buckholtz
An Arab taxi driver takes a lone American where she never planned

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>The Surreal Gourmet
By Bob Blumer
Dahling, you taste fabulous!

Mondo Weirdo
More strange food tales

Postmark
By Tessa Souter
Harlem on my mind

Readers' Tips and Tales
The ugly American


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LA S T+W E E K

Tuesday, June 10

Tiger Leaping Gorge
By Simon Winchester
Greed menaces a Chinese treasure

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This summer, don't be without the latest collection of monochrome greens, crisply accented with a variety of tasteful accessories.

THE SURREAL GOURMET | june 21 marks the official beginning of summer and, with it, the lighter, more fashionable fare of warm-weather dining. This summer au courant fashion plates everywhere will be wearing the latest collection of monochrome greens, crisply accented with a variety of tasteful accessories. Unlike many flash-in-the-pan fads, this one is quickly becoming a culinary classic for the simple reason that it truly is as tasteful as it is eye-catching.

Prêt-à-manger baby salad greens (also known as mesculin) are everywhere. Packaged or bulk greens, now available in most grocery stores, contain a combination of up to a dozen different varieties of baby lettuces, baby mustard greens and herbs. Like gourmet jelly beans, the flavors blend together when they are eaten en masse. But sample the greens one at a time and you will discover their distinctive flavors and textures.

Baby greens, like their predecessors -- sun-dried tomatoes, pesto and goat cheese -- were formerly an upscale gourmet product available only in fine restaurants and from gourmet shops (at gourmet prices). Like their predecessors, their mass popularity is due to the fact that they really are a gift from the gods. A salad of mixed baby greens, a few accents and a light dressing is the perfect summer staple.

Skip the heavier conventional salad accessories such as bell peppers, onions and cucumbers. Instead, combine greens with one or more of the delicate ingredients listed below. Then make one of my light dressings, or whip up your own instant gourmet dressing with a splash of specialty oil (i.e. extra-virgin olive oil, hazelnut oil or walnut oil) and a dash of lemon juice and/or fancy vinegar (i.e. balsamic or raspberry). Toss the dressing and greens together at the last instant and voila, a vibrant and stylish salad awaits.


Salad à la mode
(Serving size: Approximately 2 ounces of baby greens per person)

A C C E S S O R I E S
Throw together any combination from one or more of the following categories. Experiment with different mixes, letting your taste buds be the judge.

Cheese

  • Chevre (goat cheese), crumbled or warmed
  • Blue cheese, crumbled
  • Imported Italian Reggiano Parmesan, shaved
  • Asiago, grated or shaved

Nuts & Seeds

  • Sunflower seeds, toasted
  • Pumpkin seeds, toasted
  • Pecans, toasted
  • Walnuts, toasted
  • Pine nuts, toasted

Veggies

  • Yellow or red cherry tomatoes
  • Fennel, thinly sliced (sautéed, if you like)
  • Wild mushrooms (sautéed if you like)

Miscellaneous

  • Herbed croutons
  • Leek, white and pale green part only, thinly sliced or shredded, thoroughly washed, then sautéed in butter or oil over medium-high heat until crisp
  • Garlic cloves, thinly sliced and sautéed in butter or oil over medium heat until golden brown
  • Chives, finely diced
  • Fresh mint or basil leaves


D R E S S I N G S
All dressings make approximately 6 servings.

The Classic

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/3 cup best-available olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2 garlic clove

1. Combine all the ingredients except garlic with a whisk.
2. Rub the cut side of the garlic clove thoroughly around the inside of a wooden salad bowl. (Note: this will only use up a small portion of the clove.) If you are using a glass or ceramic bowl, the surface will be too smooth to attract the garlic. In this case mince 1/4 to 1/2 of a clove and add it directly to the dressing.

Honey-Cumin Vinaigrette

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons honey
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
1/3 cup safflower oil (or olive oil)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients with a whisk, in a blender or food processor.

Creamy Raspberry-Orange Dressing

1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1 tablespoon raspberry vinegar
1 tablespoon honey
2 tablespoons plain yogurt
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/4 cup fresh or thawed frozen raspberries
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Blend the juice, vinegar, honey, yogurt and oil in a blender or food processor.
1. Add the raspberries, salt and pepper and "pulse" them until mixed.


Le Secret: Use fresh, crisp (cold) greens.
The Adventure Club: Add edible flowers (purchased from a store so as to avoid poisoning yourself) and serve the dressing from a watering can.
Garnish: "Cheat" the presentation by drawing some of the optional ingredients to the top of the salad.
Alternatives: Make your own lettuce mix by combining tender or specialty lettuces (arugula, radicchio, watercress, red leaf, etc.).
Notes:
  • The lettuce leaves should be coated, but not soaked, in dressing. Add the dressing a little at a time to keep the salad from becoming too wet.
  • Wait until the last possible moment before tossing the salad with dressing.

Guest Assignments: Lettuce washer and dryer
Hints for Advance Prep: All salad dressings may be prepared up to several days in advance and refrigerated.
Music To (gently) Toss By: George Winston "Summer," Windham Hill Records
June 17, 1997

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Photo/styling by Bob Blumer (a k a the Surreal Gourmet).
Browse the Surreal Gourmet Archives
The Surreal Gourmet's Web Site is located at http://surrealgourmet.com.





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