Mysterious greens, scary shrimp
and trailer-park food traumas.
Dear Surreal Gourmet,
We have searched all our books, finding no mention of cilantro leaves. What are they? Is there another name here? Living in Europe is not easy and I would like to brighten my day with your eggs carbonara, but then I have to find cilantro leaves and nobody knows what they are called over here.
-- Mortso, Norway
Dear Mortso,
You are not the first person from a foreign land to ask this question. Cilantro is also known as coriander or Chinese parsley. And if you can't find pine nuts, ask for pignolis.
P.S. Please send salmon.
Dear Surreal Gourmet,
I have been wanting to prepare a dish with shrimp for some time now, but have this acute paranoia of the little buggers. First off, I haven't a clue how to peel them, or what parts I'm supposed to remove. I don't even know how long to cook them. Can you please give me a quick course in Shrimp 101 and recommend an easy dish to get me started?
-- Shrimp Phobic
Dear Shrimp Phobic,
Timely question. As it happens, last week's Surreal Gourmet recipe was an exceptionally simple Tequila Marinated Shrimp Taco. It's so simple, I challenge you to ruin it!
In answer to your questions, here's the basic drill for shrimp:
1. The simplest way to get the best quality shrimp that are most suitable for whatever you may be cooking is to go to a reputable fish store, describe
what you are making and seek the advice of the fishmonger.
2. To peel shrimp, simply put your finger under the shell and peel it off.
It's easiest if you do this under cold running water. Some people leave the
tail on for aesthetic purposes, but as a beginner, just remove the whole
shell.
3. After the shrimp are peeled, use a small, sharp knife to make a shallow cut
along the center of the entire backside of each shrimp, then pinch out the
thin, black intestinal vein that runs along the back. (If the shrimp are
tiny, this is unnecessary.)
4. Shrimp cook very quickly, and the ultimate sin is to overcook them.
Depending on their size and the cooking method, shrimp will take anywhere
from two to 10 minutes to cook. When shrimp are raw, they are translucent. They are fully cooked as soon as the flesh turns a whitish pink color.
Let me know how the dinner turns out.
Dear Surreal Gourmet,
Last month I prepared baked polenta, and it was a total disaster. The polenta congealed in some spots and was mushy in others. I topped it with a marinara sauce, but the few "good" parts still tasted bland and unintriguing. What tips and ideas do you have for a delightful and perfectly prepared polenta meal?
-- Polenta Head
Dear Polenta Head,
Polenta is a lot like pasta. On its own it is quite bland. To bring it to
life, you need to infuse it with flavorful ingredients during the preparation
stage and/or top it with a sauce that has a pulse.
It's difficult to address the texture issue you raised without knowing how
you prepared the polenta. Generally speaking, you want to cook it on the
stove like cream of wheat, then spread it in a pan to let it congeal. At
this point it is fully cooked. Many chefs then grill it for a couple of
minutes to give it a bit of a crust and add flavor and color. If you are
going for the mushy variety, use more liquid and add some cream and an egg
yolk.
The following ingredients will wake up your polenta:
Stock. Use stock (i.e. chicken broth) in place of water.
Freshly grated Italian parmesan Reggiano or Gorgonzola cheese. Add it along with the stock.
Salt and pepper.
Here's a recipe for one of my favorite polenta toppings:
ROASTED RED BELL PEPPER SAUCE
(Serves 2)
2 red bell peppers
1 Poblano chili
1 1/2 tablespoons butter or olive oil
2 shallots
1 leek, white and pale green section only
3/4 cup chicken or vegetable stock
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, stems removed
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
salt and pepper to taste
1/4 cup heavy cream
1. Roast the red and poblano peppers whole over a charcoal flame or under a broiler, turning until entirely blackened. Remove from the grill and
immediately place in a paper bag, seal and let sit for 3 minutes. Peel off
the charred skin and discard. Slice the peeled peppers open and discard the
membranes and seeds.
2. In a sauté pan over medium heat, heat the butter and add the shallots and leek. Cook for about 6 minutes, or until the shallots and leeks are translucent, stirring frequently.
3. Add the stock and thyme. Bring to a boil, then immediately reduce heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes. (Adjust heat as required to simmer.)
4. Remove from heat and let cool. In a food processor or blender, add the stock, red peppers, poblano chili, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Blend until smooth.
5. Before serving, reheat sauce in a saucepan and stir in cream.
Dear Surreal Gourmet,
Every time I visit my family, I am forced to eat my mother's awful, trailer park-style meals. I have tried cooking for the family when I'm home, but my flair for fanciful, elegant dishes is only met with pinched noses and a refusal to eat. I would like to prepare a meal for my family that somehow appeals to the Wonder Bread and Hamburger Helper crowd but is bearable for us with more delicate sensibilities. Any suggestions?
-- Deprived
Dear Deprived,
I empathize with your situation. The last time I tried to poach salmon in my Dad's dishwasher, he yelled at me and asked why I don't just cook it in the oven like everyone else.
Your dilemma is easily solved. Discreetely use the ingredients you like, then
present them in a way to which your family is accustomed. For example, meat loaf has enjoyed a renaissance, and there are many new recipes that use a variety of nontraditional ingredients. Who's going to notice if you sneak some roasted garlic into the mashed potatoes? Or why not roast a whole chicken with lots of fresh rosemary and thyme stuffed under the skin (if necessary, remove the herbs before serving)? Claim to have abandoned your frou-frou ways, and they'll never suspect a thing.
If all else fails, bring a good bottle of wine and wash down your mother's
cooking with it while everyone else sucks back their Budweisers.
P.S. Does your mother wear army boots too?
March 5, 1997
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