Cream-based soup, starter kitchens and first courses Dear Burnt-out Cook, I'm not clear on what the term "cream-based soup" actually means. I'm always hearing it at restaurants. -- In the Soup Dear In the Soup, There are many different kinds of soups. Consommés are absolutely clear ("clarified") and the most elegant soup of all. Broths are heartier and usually have a diced vegetable or shredded meat component. Then you get into thickened soups. They are usually thickened by puréeing the contents that have all cooked together. To give these puréed soups a certain luster that makes them delicious, cream is often added. They are called creams, as in "cream of asparagus." This is not -- as people often think -- asparagus that has cooked in cream and then been blended together. (It would be too rich to eat.) Most of the liquid in these cream-based soups is still chicken stock, but some cream has been added during cooking. Usually it's not very much. People who are concerned about their cream intake have a lot more reason to worry about what passes for sauces in many bad restaurants, which is essentially a reduction of cream with a flavoring component added at the end. Dear Burnt-out Cook, I am registering for my wedding at Williams-Sonoma. What do you think I really need to stock a "starter kitchen"? -- Bride-to-be Dear Bride-to-be, Even if they're gifts, keep to the basics. Chances are you probably still have a few changes of address to go through before you get to the house of your dreams. Don't weigh yourself down. First of all, I don't think you need a full set of knives. With a 10-inch kitchen knife, a meat slicer and a paring knife, you can accomplish most things. A professional blender is very useful. This can make the Margaritas for your first anniversary, blend soups and liquefy baby's first meals. Get several good quality sauté pans, at least one of which should be large and teflon-coated. This can be used both for Sunday morning pancakes and low-fat cooking to avoid the onset of love handles. You will of course get cooking pots. Make sure they have metal handles so they can go into the oven. Also, get a very large stock-pot. Even if you don't know what you'll use it for, eventually you'll find yourself using it a lot. There will be stews for family get-togethers, there will be jam-making sessions, there will be entire boy-scout/girl-scout troops to feed. Most professional cooks work with tongs. They're great for turning meats in a pan. I'd get a couple of pairs of these since with heavy use they will break. They're a lot easier to use than carving forks and they don't pierce the meat. In bowls I prefer stainless steel to ceramic, though ceramic is prettier for presentation. Rubber spatulas are indispensable for getting all the sauce out of a pot or a bowl, and you can never have enough dishtowels. Dear Burnt-out Cook, I give lots of dinner parties but I have trouble thinking of first courses. Any suggestions? -- Stumped for starters Dear Stumped, First courses are great. If you're a guest, they give you an opportunity to warm up to your dinner companions. If you're the host, they buy you time. I don't particularly care to begin a meal with a tossed salad. It's easy, but a little too easy. I'm old-fashioned enough to think that if you're going to go to the trouble of inviting guests over, you can go to a little more trouble than serving a first course salad. The list of first courses is endless. I will give you my own favorites. First of all, soups. I like the consistency contrast of a liquid first course. Hot soups in winter, cold soups in summer. Remember that a cold soup is not a hot soup that has been cooled -- the solidified fat content would be very unappetizing. Know a few cold soups -- tomato, almond, cucumber. Second, I like classic French first courses: steamed artichokes, asparagus or leeks vinaigrette, a slab of country terrine served with good bread and cornichons. Third, I like seafood first courses. Smoked salmon, mussels marinieres, sautéed prawns or seared scallops served around some julienned vegetables with a dribble of ginger-soy. Since the progression of most meals is from white to red wine, this is an opportunity to show some style. Escape the white wine for cocktails trap and serve champagne. Then with your first course, bring out a chilled Vouvray, Sancerre or Chablis. You may be frantic in the kitchen, but your guests will be perfectly happy to wait. March 26, 1997 Seeking culinary guidance? E-mail your queries to TasteTalk. Please sign your full name, and let us know if you want your e-mail address to appear.

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