The main reason to stay in or close to Angahuán is so you can get going early; traveling to the volcano and climbing it is an all-day event. Embark just before dawn (don't worry, guides and horses will be awake) so you can ride during the cool hours of the morning and arrive at an almost deserted volcano.

There's nothing to stop you from hiking, with or without a guide, all the way to Paricutín. For that matter, there's nothing to stop you from eating horse manure on the way, but that doesn't mean it's a good idea. We're talking about more than 16 miles round trip, and significant, sandy upgrades, with no water or food on the way. Unless you enjoy pain and despair, rent horses. You will have to rent a horse for your guide too, and it's a nice gesture to bring along some grub for him, since he won't necessarily pack his own lunch.

Choosing your guide and horses will probably be an informal and confusing affair, especially if you don't speak Spanish. Our strategy was to choose Espiritu (based on his clear Spanish and honest face; you may also try to find someone who speaks some English) and let him pick the horses. Agree on a price beforehand and pay at the end of the day. We paid about $20 each, including a pretty generous tip. Do your shopping the day before, preferably in Uruapan (Angahuán doesn't have much of a selection of anything), and dress for the occasion: jeans, hat, sunscreen for most of the year, and a long-sleeve shirt during the winter. And if you end up on a white mare with a black-streaked mane, wait until she's tucked away a few mouthfuls of shrubbery before you try to get her to move, because until she's done so, you're not going anywhere.
May 27, 1997

And don't forget our Table Talk area -- another great source of detailed advice!