T H I S+W E E K

If it's Tuesday,
I must be tipsy
By Jan Morris
Jan Morris drinks her way across Europe

D E P A R T M E N T S

The Surreal Gourmet
By Bob Blumer
Throw a salmon on the barbie

Postmark: Philadelphia
By Mary Elizabeth Williams
City of Brotherly Weirdness

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By Octavio Paz
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- Getting there

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LA S T+W E E K

Tuesday, May 13

Foucault au lait
By David Downie
I pose, therefore I am. "Philocafes" conquer Paris.

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T H E   S U R R E A L 

G O U R M E T :

salmon
under
wraps

Memorial Day weekend sparks the beginning of grill season. Celebrate with this Frenchie-inspired BBQ feast.

BY BOB BLUMER | if you read my column last week on grilled asparagus (which should have been headlined "Gee your asparagus smells terrific," but I thought of it a day too late), you may recall that I begged forgiveness for providing a "recipe" that consisted of only two ingredients. To make it up to any of you who were counting, and all of you who recognize Memorial Day weekend as the official start of grill season, here is a barbecue recipe that verges on haute cuisine. It's a guaranteed crowd-pleaser and perfect for backyard parties because it can be assembled in advance and simply tossed on the grill at show time.

The origins of this dish are in France, where they wrap pigeon in radicchio leaves. In America, where pigeons may be the last remaining species to feel safe on the streets, such a feast would qualify as a bona fide party pooper, so I've modified the ingredients to suit the populist palette. The preparation is more complicated then shaping hamburger patties, but I promise you the presentation value and taste sensation is worth the extra effort.

SALMON GRILLED
BETWEEN ROMAINE LETTUCE LEAVES
(Serves 6)

Ingredients
12 large romaine lettuce leaves
6 teaspoons olive oil
6 1-inch-thick salmon steaks or salmon fillets, approximately 6 ounces each
4 lemons -- 3 juiced, 1 thinly-sliced
Salt and pepper, to taste
6 teaspoons capers
12 sprigs of fresh dill
6 pieces of twine, 3 feet each (or another non-flammable natural fiber)

1. Soak twine in hot water for 5 minutes.
2. Rinse salmon in cold water and pat dry with towel.
3. Repeat the following for each salmon steak:

• Rinse 2 romaine leaves in water; shake off excess water. Rub 1/2 teaspoon of the oil on the inside (concave) side of each leaf.
• Place salmon steak in the center of one leaf (concave side up).
• Pour the juice of 1/2 lemon over salmon, trapping the drippings with the leaf.
• Add salt and pepper.
• Top with 1 teaspoon capers, 2 sprigs of dill and one lemon slice.
• Place the second leaf over salmon, fold the ends of the bottom leaf up to keep juices trapped and wrap the string around the leaves to seal. Tie string in a knot (see illustration).
• Place fish on grill directly over hot coals for 5 minutes. Turn and grill for another 5 minutes. Cooking time will vary according to the exact thickness of the steak, and fillets will cook faster.
• Cut string and remove top leaf. (You may want to leave string on for presentation value.)

Le Secret: Do not overcook the salmon. To test, make an incision in the middle.
Adventure Club: Go catch the salmon yourself.
Notes:

• Keep track of which end is the top (with capers and dill) when removing leaf to serve.
• Don't buy salmon steaks that are bigger than the romaine leaves.
• The grilled lettuce is good to eat.
• Even though salmon is a bit pricey, the small serving size keeps it affordable, even for large dinner parties.

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Illustration by the Surreal Gourmet.
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