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T H I S+W E E K
Lost in the Sahara
By Jeffrey Tayler
A simple overnight trip becomes a battle for survival
Sensual sands
By Pamela Robertson
A desert portfolio
Letter from Amsterdam
By Mary Beth Williams
Toke of the town
D E P A R T M E N T S
>The Surreal Gourmet
By Bob Blumer
Running on full
Mondo Weirdo
Lions and rhinos and loos -- oh my!
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LA S T+W E E K
Tuesday, Sept. 9, 1997

Bali low
By Cintra Wilson
Loveless in paradise
A full list of all
Wanderlust articles
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HARVEST THE REWARDS OF "THE WORLD'S LONGEST MARATHON" WITH THESE 24-MILE MARK OYSTERS.
THE SURREAL GOURMET
greetings from Pauillac, France. As a dedicated drinker with a running problem, I realized that I was in for the adventure of my life when I stepped into the starting chute of last Saturday's Medoc Marathon -- a 26.2-mile run through the vineyards of the famous Bordeaux wine region. There were clowns to the left of me, jokers to the right and bumblebees, Vikings, shackled prisoners and transvestites on all sides. At most sporting events, the carnival-like atmosphere is in the stands. Here in Medoc, it's the participants who have all the fun.
At the sound of the confetti-spewing cannon, a throng of 7,800 runners set off through the narrow streets of Pauillac. As we wound past the local patisseries and cafes, a bottleneck quickly developed behind a team of eight runners pushing a 12-foot-high replica of a French windmill. As we ground to a virtual dead stop, the crowd responded with encouraging cheers and spontaneous songs for the windmillers. The slow start cost me seven precious minutes, but fortunately I was able to take advantage of the masquerading and make up some lost time by sneaking up behind a team of overstuffed baked potatoes and using them as a windscreen during a long stretch of nasty head winds.
Of course, time is a relative thing in a race nicknamed "Le marathon le plus long du monde" (the world's longest marathon). In the spirit of a lengthy French meal, runners come to savor the pleasures of the course, not to rush through it. And there is plenty to savor. Starting at mile 5, each of the chateaux along the route proudly offers the runners samples of its wines. And only the best grand cru wines are poured by some of the world's most celebrated names, including Lafite Rothschild and Latour. Did I drink it? Of course I did! When's the last time you turned down a bottomless glass of Lafite?
Farther down the road, dried fruits, cheeses and meats accompanied the wines. Other less interesting necessities such as water, sponges and oranges were eagerly distributed by hundreds of radiant village children who performed double duty as judges for the costume contest. When an energy rush was in order, I simply reached down and plucked a bunch of grapes -- only days away from the harvest and, consequently, brimming with sugar -- from the endless rows of vines that lined the entire course.
The real beauty of the race is that there are so many distractions, one never has time to focus on the pain. Every turn offers another architecturally stunning chateau, breathtaking vista, singing minstrel group or chance encounter with Julius Caesar. Before I could hit the dreaded "wall," I found myself approaching the fabled oyster bar at the 24-mile mark, where a crowd of festooned runners were sucking back locally harvested Atlantic oysters and washing them down with vintage LynchBages. Not being an oyster lover at the best of times, I paused just long enough to quaff enough white wine to dull the pain of the final two miles. Sixteen minutes later I crossed the finish line (3:41), where I was kissed on both cheeks and rewarded with a bottle of Chateau Tour Haut-Caussan '92.
If this is how my running problem is dealt with in Bordeaux, sign me up for next year's race! At the end of the race, Thierry Marx, a fellow marathoner and "chef de cuisine" of the exquisite Chateau Cordeillan-Bages, shared the following traditional methods for preparing oysters. Now you can harvest the rewards of my hard run without leaving your kitchen.
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L'HUITRES CROUSTILLANTE (CRUSTED OYSTERS)
(Serves 2)
Ingredients
1 cup regular flour
1 cup bread crumbs
2 eggs
12 oysters out of their shells
1/2 cup sunflower oil
1. In three separate bowls, place flour, eggs (beaten) and bread crumbs.
2. Roll oysters in flour, dip in egg mixture, then roll in bread crumbs.
3. In a frying pan, over high heat, heat up oil. When oil is hot, add oysters. Turn after 30 seconds, let sit for 30 more, then remove and drain on a paper towel. Serve immediately on a tray with toothpicks.
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L'HUITRES AUX SHALLOTS (OYSTERS WITH SHALLOTS)
(Serves 2)
Ingredients
12 oysters in their shells
1 shallot, minced
4 chives, diced
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons sunflower oil
1. Mix shallots, chives, oil and vinegar in a bowl and let stand for one hour.
2. Open oysters and spoon one teaspoon of dressing over the top of each.
3. Serve immediately.
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L'HUITRES AUX POIREAUX (OYSTERS WITH LEEKS)
(Serves 2)
Ingredients
1 leek, pale green section only, washed thoroughly and diced
1 tablespoon butter
12 oysters in their shells
1 tablespoon of whipping cream
1/2 tablespoon fresh ground black pepper (no salt is necessary because of natural saltiness)
1. Over medium-high heat, melt butter in a sauté pan and cook leeks for approximately three minutes until they barely begin to brown.
2. Heat a second pan over high heat. Open oysters. When the pan is very hot, add the oyster meat and juices. Cook oysters for 10 seconds a side, then remove with a fork and replace in their shells.
3. Add cream, pepper and sautéed shallots to the remaining juices, stir, then spoon a teaspoon over each oyster. Serve immediately.
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Le Secret: The fresher the oysters, the tastier.
The Adventure Club: Sign up for next year's race. (see below)
Notes:
Do not eat oysters that are more than 3 days old.
Do not eat oysters if their shells are even slightly opened.
Wine: A dry, white Bordeaux (of course!)
Music to Cook By: The original motion picture soundtrack for "Chariots of Fire"
Sept. 16, 1997
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For more information on the Medoc Marathon, contact their headquarters:
011-33-5-56-40-50-50
Fax: 011-33-5-56-40-86-30
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Want to make your own tour of the French countryside? Find out where to stay in the France area of Wanderlust Marketplace.
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Photos by Bob Blumer (aka the Surreal Gourmet).
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