T H I S+W E E K

Burma or Bust
By Joshua Cohen
A charmed traveler in China takes the hard road to a forbidden border.

D E P A R T M E N T S

The Surreal Gourmet
By Bob Blumer
A fruity, non-boozy, end-of-summer smoothie

Mondo Weirdo
By Don George
Strange bedtime tales from Thailand, Peru and Ecuador

Passages
A Simple Gift
By Robert J. Matthews
A touching encounter with a leper in Nepal

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Great Railway Journeys

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LA S T+W E E K

Tuesday, August 19, 1997

Sleeping with elephants
By Don Meredith
Earth-shaking encounters in Kenya

A full list of all
Wanderlust articles

Walter Unger | Great Railway Journeys
10:44pm Aug 20, 1997 PST (#6 of 6)

it was late spring, 1965 and the height of the Cold War. I was on a business trip to (then) West Germany and during some spare time and on the advice of friends, took the overnight train from Helmstedt to Berlin through East Germany. My friends said it would be an experience of a lifetime - "not necessarily happy". They were right.

It was one of the most remarkable experiences of my life. I am a German speaker and could therefore hear and experience much. I was in a compartment full of former Wehrmacht railway specialists from the WWII Eastern front, visiting relatives in Berlin. Their stories were hair raising. How they had survived their campaigns in the Soviet Union was miraculous. They told me amazing tales - of course they were the lucky ones, the few who were still alive. Even more amazing was their interaction with the VOPOS (Volkspolozei - East German "Peoples Police")who roamed the train all night.

Here I was - a Canadian caught between the remnants of two totalitarian regimes - Nazi and Communist - fascinated by their interplay.

They played a game on the train they had doubtless played many times before. The former Wehrmacht train engineers tried to stare down the seemingly teenage communist VOPOS. The VOPOS, in turn, with trigger-happy fingers, tried to stare down the former (supposedly) Nazi engineers. It was an all-night standoff.I have never sensed so many automatic weapons readied. I have never heard so many disparaging remarks. I have never seen so many documents studied and challenged. I have never witnessed such palpable hatred from both sides. Many times I thought there would be bloodshed.

Meanwhile, we rushed past poorly-lit train stations and crossings at measured speed, light reflecting bleakly on more VOPOS and their weapons.

And then after a short fitful sleep I was in Berlin at dawn. I had come through more than night into day.

I recall this to remind us that there is nothing romantic or positive about the Communist or Nazi chapters of the history of this century. They were both evil. There are forces abroad these days that say otherwise but they are wrong.

Andrew J Bower | Great travel books
03:11am Aug 22, 1997 PST (#21 of 21)

i second the nomination for "Blue Highways". That book, together with "On the Road" was influential in my decision to embark on a 16,000 mile, 38 state journey around the United States a couple of years ago. These books and Sesame Street, that is. After growing up in Australia, everywhere I went in the U.S. I felt like I was in a 70s cop show or sitcom (or a Hal Hartley movie, on a few memorable occaisions). I was excited to find out that New York is exactly like Sesame Street.

This is probably totally obscure for most people out there in TT land, but one of my favourite travel writers is an Australian called Peter Pinney. He was a commando in WW2, and the experience affected him so profoundly he spent 16 years after the war wandering all over the world, usually penniless and often visa-less. It's fascinating, but frustrating to read about a world that is long gone, and adventures that would be impossible to replicate (particularly his travels through the Middle East, and epic journeys (on foot) through Africa). His books are all out of print, and he passed away a few years ago, but his books are well worth tracking down. His "fictional" war diaries are also outstanding.

Zora Boswell | Venice - La Citta Piu Bella Del Mondo
02:15pm Aug 24, 1997 PST (#16 of 16)

did you ever meet the little old man, a woodcarver, who carves perfect globes of wood? If you've explored the routes of small streets it is likely you have seen him. What a marvel. I also enjoy the roots of Carnevale there and sometimes order masks ahead of time to be made.

I've lived there a couple of times, in Venezia. It certainly has its charm. And when I was a little girl and we once lived there in the dead of winter I remember frequent times being bundled up, hurried into a boat, and arriving at the steps of Santa Maria Della Salute (that breathtaking church you can see off the piazzetta San Marco) in near pitch blackness with a biting, icy wind against which I had to always brace myself quite hard.

Sometimes on cold, quiet afternoons, oh I was maybe seven, my mother would "park" me in the Piazza San Marco tearoom. I was quite content to curl up in a corner with a good book and endless teas and goodies, with waiters tolerating me with great charm.

As I grown up, I prefer dashing between errands in spring or fall (santo dio, mai nel'estate) along the canal and just playing the Voyeur to all those marvellous facades, colorful hanging banners and delectable windows - practicing dancers, gallery exhibits, people enjoying the good things of life.

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