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Love on the line | page 1, 2

My Corsican adventure was not the first time a rendezvous in a phone booth had sent me reeling. My attraction to and fear of phone booths began years ago. In 1961, I was a senior at a women's college on the East Coast and living in dormitory housing. There was a single phone booth for about 30 women. When a call came in from a man, whoever answered the phone would shout up to your room, "A phone call." If it was a woman's voice on the line, they would say, "A call."

One evening the promising words "phone call" summoned me to the phone. I had been dating an Irish Catholic man, Kerry Keegan, who attended an Ivy League men's college in New England. I was in love with Kerry -- and I was going through a pregnancy scare. A few days earlier I had called him to tell him that my period was late. My hope was that he was calling me. Instead a strange male voice identified itself: "This is Father Fitzpatrick. Kerry has shared your news with me. I am sure a smart college girl like yourself will know how to take care of this problem and not upset a fine family like the Keegans." Clearly my Jewishness had placed me somewhere in the category of an untouchable in those intense anti-Semitic days. The phone booth was suddenly stifling as I hung up and dragged myself back to my room.

Other times phone booths yield happy surprises. When Abdallah Sidi called me in Paris from Tunis to say "Je t'aime," I had expected neither his call nor the message but was very pleased. We had met just a few weeks before when I had spent 10 days at a Tunisian coastal resort. During gray rainy Parisian winters when sun becomes an atavistic memory, Tunisia is an inexpensive and sunny getaway for the French.

There in Tunisia, at a Club Med-style resort near Hammamet, a creative maitre d' had seated me at the same table with probably the only single man in the dining room. Abdallah, an economist with the Tunisian government, was staying at the hotel while conducting government business in the nearby villages. He spoke French well but with a Tunisian accent. His English was another story. He used wonderful literal translations from Tunisian like "I have the nose" to explain that he was getting a cold and had congested sinuses. We talked during meals, met for after-dinner coffee, became friends and finally something more.

Americans take phone booths for granted. In Tunis, the only public phones are in the crowded post office. Waiting in line to call can sometimes take an hour. Then, at least in the days when I knew Abdallah Sidi, you were limited to three minutes per call. So when he phoned me in Paris, recalling the crowds and the heat in that area of Tunis, I appreciated what he was going through. I pictured the old souk, the market place, just behind the post office, the same souk where French friends and I had gotten trapped during a flash flood and had to pay a local boy to lead us out, flood water up to my knees, clutching over my head the maroon and gold woven dress I had just purchased.

"I want you to come spend the summer with me in Tunis," he said. "Friends have made an apartment available. There won't be any furniture but that's not a big problem." I thought about sleeping on the floor in a non-air-conditioned apartment in summertime Tunis. Abdallah was a very nice man, intelligent, handsome, divorced and intense. He had introduced me to what seemed a rather kinky aspect of Muslim lovemaking: silence. "You must make no sound because Allah can hear. When you are satisfied, you may say, 'OK.' But only that." Back in Paris, I had been thinking about him a lot and missing him.

"I want us to be married. We have to speak quickly because my three minutes are almost up." My mind whirled. "Click, click, buzz," went the dial tone as we were cut off. As I hung up, I sighed a small thank you to the Tunisian phone system and began planning my letter of adieu.

Sometimes phone booths aren't for phone calls. I discovered this while taking a cruise with my mother. She was a traveler; in her last years and failing health, she found cruises a means to keep up her wanderings. As claustrophobic and sedate as I found them, I accompanied her on several. One was unmercifully long: three weeks from the Caribbean through the Panama Canal and up to San Francisco. A man who sat at the next table from us and I eyed each other, spoke, danced and finally tried to find a private place. He was sharing his cabin with his young son and I was sharing mine with my mother. After midnight, wandering around the ship, we discovered an odd room off the gambling casino that, strangely enough, had a phone booth in it. The room appeared to be deserted so we started to hug and kiss. Eventually I ended up on the little seat in the phone booth. Enjoying ourselves immensely, we burst out laughing when a member of the crew started to enter the room, saw us and grew wide-eyed. "Is everything all right here?" he asked.

And now I sat by the Gulf of Valinco, thinking about loves that ended and began in public phone booths. I'm all right now, I thought after reflecting on my current situation. Laurel blossoms fell on me from the surrounding trees. My head had cleared; Corsican seas are soothing, blue and full of wonder. I was on Prospero's island -- and there wasn't a phone booth around for miles.
salon.com | June 18, 1999

 

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About the writer
Diane LeBow is a freelance writer and community college professor who divides her time between San Francisco, Paris and Corsica -- when not on the road.

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